Jungle Time

Hola amigos!! Estamos en Bosque del Cabo! Es en la Osa peninsula en el sur del pais. We are in a nature reserve that a couple has created and preserved. We are staying in a house that has walls but no windows, the kitchen and sitting area is all open, and the bathrooms and showers are outside with just little privacy walls. Being 8 of us, we have created a system using towels to make sure we dont walk in on each other using the toilet! Showering is pretty amazing when you can see monkeys hanging in the trees right next to you.

This is our 3rd day here and so far we have been on a few hikes where we saw spider, howler and whitefaced monkeys. Howlers sound like zombies, not a very nice sound especially at 4:30 in the morning which seems to be a ritual for them. Spider monkeys walk upright on the branches sometimes, and you can't help but get a weird feeling that we are related. There are tons of beautiful birds, including my favorite the toucan!!! We are pretty lucky, our house overlooks the ocean and has plenty of wildlife and all we have to do is sit in our patio chairs.

We have been eatingg.....and eatingg....3 square meals a day! All the food has been incredibly delicious, but I have actually grown weary of eating. Yes me, a foodie has literally gotten tired of eating. I wish though to bring home this salsa that is served at every table called Lizano...it is haeaven and goes on everything!!!

It's my birthday today! 25! I think its a pretty sweet way to enjoy it :) We are hiking today to the ocean and a waterfall - which hiking here is so different than what we are used to in the high desert. Here it is wet, the mud is like clay and you can't help but wonder if there is a snake under all those leaves. The canopy and trees block a lot of the sun light so it is fairly dark in the forest.

So far, we have not had any awful bug encounters...and knock on wood the mosquitos have not eaten us alive.

We have learned to get used to wet clothing, as nothing dries here, just stays damp, including the hiking shoes...heres to hoping I dont get foot rot or something dramatic and gross like that.

Considring that we are literally in the jungle it has been quite an experience, and the set up makes it feel like you are roughing it without actually roughing it. I am very lucky that Phil and Sarah's mom and Bernie have brought me on this incredible and somewhat lush experience.

We are here for another 2 days then head to Zancudo which is across the little bay called Golfito. Bernie and Donna say we will really be roughing it there, so far we know we are staying in banana cabinos on the beach, and I guess there is only one hotel in the area? We shall have to see!

On a funny side note, we have all falled in love with the local beer Imperial. So much that in our first place, we had to have beer brought everyday and when we arrived to the Osa peninsula, Puerto Jimenez to be exact, we asked the driver to stop at the local grocery store. Quite a sight to see a whirlwind of 8 white tourists sweep through the market in about 10 minutes collecting snacks, 10 bottles of wine and about 2 cases of Imperial. Probably the most action for these locals in a long time, we were happy to entertain and support local business. :)

Internet and phones are limited here so not sure when the next post will be...love to all!

Pura Vida - Manuel Antonio

So the first segment of the costa rica adventure....I'm here in manuel antonio, which is a three hour drive from San Jose airport, with phils family. We have been staying in a rented villa, since there is w total of 8 of us, that sits on the hillside in the vegetation overlooking the beach and natural forest reserve. Every day consists of incredible eating with tons of fresh seafood prepared by the in house chef, a 22 year old costa rican with incredible talent. He is great an none of us can get enough of the fresh fruit and seafood. Each day we usuall hit up the beach for some ocean swimming and head back to he house, about 5 min taxi drive or 20 min walk, to have lunch, swim in the pool and take a nap. Dinner is usUally at 7 so we read or chat after our nap till then. One day we did a ziplining tour where we did 10 ziplines, one Tarzan swing (exactly how it sounds), and two repels down trees. The thrill and the rush of flying through the trees is unlike anything else and u would never believe how high u r because u cannot see the bottom floor. Another day we went on a guided hike through the natural preserve where we saw sloths, an incredile amount of white faced monkeys, lizards, and leaf cutter ants that have incredible strength. We came acros a pack of monkeys that were literally two feet away from me playing and going nuts, stealing cookies from tourists it was fantastic. I have videos of it to post when I come home. Everything has been wonderful so far, 5 days has felt like two weeks! Except for the massive cockroach I found in my room or the scorpion jeff found in his shorts in his room. Sort of nervous for the bug situation at the next place, you can look up the website by searching for Bosque del Cabo. We depart from here tomorrow and will be at the Eco lodge for 5 nights after which we check out zancudo for the remaining time, then I meet eve in the Dominican to see Stacie! Anyway that is the scoop thus far I will try to write at the next place!!!! Also last night we experience a crazy thunderstorm! The lightening was lighting the whole sky evey 5 seconds and when the storm was over our place it sounded like a nuclear war! It wasnt necessarily scary but our nerves were on edge for about 2 hours! And the sweltering heat kicked in after the power went out! Ok thumbs hurt Now from writing on the iPhone love to u all!

I Love Dance

I had a day to myself on the Saturday before Phil arrived so I decided to see the local ballet company called the Victor Ullate Ballet Comapany, they had a showing of all choreography created by their director.  The 6 pieces were based upon classic ballet fundamentals but had modern movement and interpretation.  It was truly fantastic! What was also very unique and consistent was the type of dances that have been chosen to represent this company.  All of the dancers, male and female, were very strong and defined, not grossly muscular but very prominent definition.  The females were not soft and dainty as some ballet dancers, and the males were some of the tallest ballet dancers I have ever seen (one had to be at least Phil’s height).  Despite this different variety, each was incredibly talented and beautiful; even though they were strong and carried such a presence the movement was complimentary and showed off the body as a piece of art itself.  Once piece in particular that was simply amazing was in the final where the dancers ended up in leotards and body suits in a nude color.  The lighting was not too bright so it seemed that the dancers were nude but without the exposure of body parts.  As I mentioned, each dancer was fairly defined, and the choice of a nude bodysuit amplified the creativity of the movement and the celebration of the human body.  Mixing point and classic ballet variations to modern jerky movement it was truly a blend of the classic and new to bring forth the vision of the director.  If you are interested in his work, look him up online, I haven’t had the chance yet but if I find a link I will post it.

Some friends and I decided to see another flamenco show, this time with a  dinner included…well so we thought.  There are many dinner/show places in Madrid, and the Casa de las Patas was recommended by my Spanish teacher.  A friend called ahead to make sure it was a package and she was reassured it was.  When we arrived to the restaurant we were seated right next to the stage and the our eyes were level with the stage (thus looking up a little to the dancers).  However, when we looked at the menu dinner was not included with the show and the show was already $25.  We were a little nervous because the menu was ridiculously expensive…Phil and I shared a half a bottle of wine and a small appetizer.  Despite the attack on our wallet I would have paid 100 more euro for the dancing we saw.  Two guitarists, four flamenco singers (including one female) and nine dancers graced the stage with a passion and talent that was hard to internalize.  Three of the female dancers were I older and experienced and another was a younger girl of apprentice level, however all of them despite “putting on a show” truly exuded the flair and passion that is typical of a flamenco dancer.  It reminds me of Zembekiko of the Greek culture where it is used as a means of expression for feelings and emotions…these women had the same.  There were some songs that were sad and the angst within their faces was as if their heart was just broken…you couldn’t help but cry too.  What was fantastic was that each dancer was different from the other in style and skill level…one woman was great at fast turns while stomping her feet, the younger girl was very expressive and stunning, the other could do amazing sequences minutes at a time without breaking a sweat…and the last woman to dance…words cannot describe.  She was androgynous looking because of her very strong features, but she was very beautiful at the same time.  She played on this look of hers and danced a finale in a male costume, which was similar to a matador.  Her entire body was solid and she commanded attention…you could not peel your eyes away from her.  Anyway, her sequence of movement, steps, stomps and variation lasted at least 15 min…the sweat was pouring down her face but she was still so beautiful.  I took so much video of her so I will post that too.  Anyway, the show lasted over two hours and by the time we left my ears were ringing and my heart was pounding from the intensity of it all…I felt like I had been dancing for two hours!  Oh and worth mentioning, the same dancers put on the same show 15 min later for another group of guests and another 2 hours.  After that show I was thoroughly convinced I need to start learning Flamenco.       

SPANISH CUSTOMS AND QUIRKS

I decided to try to keep track of the differences I’ve noticed in between the Spanish culture and others I have seen, here are some so far:

1 - Obvious – Obsession with Pork.  Every store that has food has Jamon Serrano, Jamon York and Iberico, two of which are the cured and dried version.  Now I have always been a sucker for prosciutto at home, but this is overkill.  I mean I love ham and cheese sandwiches but this has been my lunch now for over a month!  It’s the only thing you can get on the go without having McDonalds or Burger King.  Ok so this is the typical lunch on the go: there are bocadillos which are baguettes of bread with just ham (all kinds), just cheese, ham and cheese or tortilla (which is a omelet with just egg and potatoes).  Then there is sandwich mixto which is square sliced bread (called Pan Molde here, which my roommate and I thought meant bread with mold at first) with ham and cheese melted.  This is my favorite; I could eat like 3 of them to really be full.  Finally, there are the baguettes which are mini baguettes with any of the above mentioned fillers. 

2 - The cafeteria at school has these sandwiches as well as Amstel on tap and other beer and wine selections.  This is something unusual but fantastic!

3 - Spaniards are obsessed with donuts.  Dunkin Donuts are everywhere and another brand they sell in stores called Donuts that when you go to the store, people have about 10 of these packages in their carts.  I mean its intense.  I have not succumbed to the donut obsession…I prefer their homemade sweets like chocolate croissants.

4 – Spaniards are embarrassing beer drinkers.  Ok Im not sure if it’s a Reno thing, but I know I love beer and so do all the people I know back home.  Spaniards don’t have any world famous beers, their selection is Estrella, Mahou and Cruzcampo.  I think the latter is the most known…however Spaniards add lemon fanta to their beer…oh my gosh are you kidding me?! Call me crazy but just drink some juice with soda water!  You should see the looks I get when I have a beer without juice, bigger than half a pint and its like unbelievable when I have a Guiness (which by the way is not that tasty here).

5 – Spaniards and Europeans in general have to be matching.  If you have a pink shirt on, you most definitely have a pink bag, belt or shoes to match.  I know that matching is better than not in some sort of color scheme…haha I don’t know.

6 - A new fashion fad here in Spain...genie pants.  Almost every girl wears these pants, that are cotton with a fit loose around the bum and the crotch seem can either be at the knee or lower...basically it looks like you have junk in your pants.  Not to mention they fit at the ankle tightly like old 80s jeans...sometimes its cute, but most of the time its uh weird.

7 - I would say 90% of the teenagers in Madrid have facial piercings, and one in particular that is a small white ball that is under the lip or right above like a Monroe.  However, they are very small and so at glance it appears that all these kids have huge whiteheads on their face...sorry for the graphic wording but it cracks me up! 

8 - Phil has noticed this...most of the people in the stores HATE breaking a 50 euro bill, either they can't count or are too lazy but every time phil offers one they scowl and huff and puff and ask for something smaller.  

9 - Grandparents are a big part of the lives of their grandchildren.  Only on the weekends do you really see parent with their children, rather during the week most grandparents are out with their grandchildren.  Newborns to young teens there is a strong affection and relationship between the children and their elders…also there is a general respect towards elders that we don’t see very much in the states, from all ages.

Almost Done

My last two weeks in Madrid were a whirlwind, a movie literally on fast forward at like x34 speed and I was doing my best to keep up.  I had a midterm in every class that was either a test or project or both combined.  So all my work and studying kept me from venturing out too late or causing a ruckus in the streets of Madrid.  I did however finally make it to the Prado museum (which is free every night from 6-8) with Sonya and we spent three evenings wandering around and drooling over the incredible skill of the artists within.

The Prado has quite an extensive collection of the 13^th-17^th century paintings from Flemish, Italian, Spanish, German, and English styles.  I never thought I would be able to determine the differences between each, but once you look at enough within a short period of time and all together in the same area the differences are clear.  It is first important to note that all painters of this time were interested in depicting the life of Christ.  Whether it was the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, the Birth or the passion, I would guess every single painter had completed some work that was religiously inspired.  To me its beautiful not only because of my Christian background but because depicting something you have never seen before is the hardest and it is a true creation of the imagination of that painter.  Also, when you have 100 paintings of the Crucifixion it gives the opportunity to begin to interpret what the artist was thinking and what techniques he used.

The Flemish style of painting is very unique, because for me, it is the farthest from reality.  Typically almond shaped faces with very full cheeks and tiny facial attributes seem like the comics of the time.  Not to say they look ridiculous, just very different, and the second attribute is that they are very angelic like.  The subjects in the paintings are all very pale and angelic whereas those attributes are typically saved for angels or other supernatural elements in other styles.  Despite the different take on reality, I did enjoy Flemish painting, especially one in particular called “The Garden of Earthly Delights”.  This was painted on a three-fold panel of wood and depicts the earthly temptations that man comes in contact with.  There are literally hundreds of figures in this painting and creatures that I find absolutely amazing and creative.  You must look it up online.

This week I also experienced when public transportation fails you are basically screwed.  Sonya and I take three trains every morning to get to school, and the second train, line 6 is a joke.  Well they are doing construction on it but basically it runs when it wants to and is never on time.  So this particular morning we get to line 6, wait for 20 min then someone comes on over the loud speaker.  All of a sudden the masses are making a frantic run for the door and out of the metro.  Sonya and I are dumbstruck and have no idea what is going on because I could not understand what the heck the lady was saying.  So I ask a nice lady next to me and she says the train is not coming for another 30 min…well that sucks because our class starts in 30 min.  Luckily we were able to call USAC offices and they laughed that it wasn’t a big deal and they would tell our teacher.  What is hysterical is that there are only 4 girls in my class, one was out that day for a hurt ankle so it was the one girl with our teacher for 45 min till Sonya and I strolled in.

Speaking of my teacher, he showed us a Spanish film called “All About My Mother” which was part of Sundance Film Festival, I think, but at any rate was really good…I suggest it to everyone who likes crazy stories especially ones that include transgender and dry humor.  It was a fantastic story, but to be quite honest I was quite uncomfortable watching it with my teacher…well he is young so I guess it wasn’t a big deal, but there were many sexual references and heres the kicker…he kept translating some of these words and references into English!  Hahah oh man, this teacher is so funny, first of all because every time he says something in English his voice drops as if he’s afraid to speak English, and then he saying these words it was like the funniest thing I have ever seen.  Anyway, good movie nonetheless…

I took some friends of mine here to a Greek restaurant that I found a review for from the New York Times, called Delfos.  Oh man it was soooooo good.  To start we had hummus, feta, aubergine paste, roe paste, and three more with warm pita bread and dolmades.  Then we split some chicken souvlaki and the grand finale was a huge plate completely covered of sweets.  Baklava, galactobureko, rum cake, yogurht with honey and a few others.  There was enough for each of us to have at least 4 pieices, it was amazing.  Needless too say, my friends are hooked and want to come to Reno for the Greek festival.  The waiter there also spoke Greek and it was fun to switch between Greek, Spanish and English depending on what words I knew the best.  Which I have a new appreciation for people who are fluent in more than one language because I have had Spanish in my brain 24/7 for the past 3 weeks and it was sooo hard to remember the Greek words.  I believe the point of fluency  comes from being able to switch between languages without difficulty and without forgetting the words.  Some day ill get there!

more to come!

El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen

Yesterday was our second guided field trip and it was to a city an hour north of Madrid called El Escorial.  What's there?  There is a royal palace/monastery in El Escorial commissioned by King Philip II after his reign as king.  Apparently King Philip II was very pious and built the Church dedicated to St. Lawrence for his father Emperor Charles V and for himself to live in.  The entire building is said to be about 160km or 100 miles of corridors, rooms, gardens, etc.

The guided tour was nice we only get to see about a fraction of the entire grounds but we did get to see the Kings private rooms, the rooms of his daughters, some of the gardens and the amazing burial vault and library.  The entire palace is just basic stone, tapestries and paintings...Philip had loved to collect paintings and art.  When you get down to the burial vault underground, it is gold, marble of all shades and basically magnificence.  There are room after room of marble tombs with elaborate carvings and amazing detail.  Also in the hallways to the monestary, there are like 30 ft high frescos painted by an Italian artist of the life of Christ.  Again...no pictures inside but I did get some of the outside.

The Valley of the Fallen is actually kind of a controversial issue for Spaniards.  Francisco Franco was the one who commissioned the building of this monument, and it was for the soldiers that died in the Spanish Civil war, of both sides from the right and left.  However, most Spaniards think that only soldiers of one side were buried there and wont even go to pay respect if they were in opposition to that side.  Its hard to explain when I cant remember the names of the parties.  Anyway, Franco is buried there along with Jose Antonio Primo de Rivera who is another important figure in the history of the Civil War.  What is amazing about this temple is that there is a cross 125 m high that sits on top of the rock, while inside they carved 300 ft deep for a basilica with an altar, (mass is held their daily) crucifix and a dome that contains a 6 million piece mosaic.  The basilica was just amazing, and within the crypt that is sealed lie 70,000 soldiers.   Behind the basilica on the other side of the rock is a monastery for benedictine monks that care for the whole place.  

This morning Sonya and I went to El Rastro which is supposedly the biggest flea market in Europe.  It was a lot of fun and I bought classic Spanish fans, castanedas and some other goodies.

I have posted more pictures...including last week's visit to Toledo.

This weekend I have soooooooo much homework and midterms this coming week.  Phil is coming on Sunday so that is something to look forward to!

And it is freaking hot here.

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Gracias Cucarachas

Hooray!!! We have moved into our new apartment today, which is quite a little place.  So far it appears there are no traces of bugs (knock on wood) and it is very clean.  The rooms are small but we have a little 3 ft terrace outside of our little living room overlooking the main road, and a nice little kitchen.  My bed feels like a bean bag so we will see how I sleep tonight! PLUS the best part...we have free internet which is unbelievable!  If you want to set up a time to Skype let me know!!!!  Thank you to the cucarachas for kicking us out of the old apartment!

Today marks 2 weeks here in Madrid and halfway through my classes.  Im sad how fast it is going, and can't believe how much material we have already covered.  Tomorrow we are going to El Escorial and visiting the Valley of the Fallen...I will give the history lesson afterwards.

The weather is hot again and Im missing the rainy weather...however we might visit the pool this afternoon for some sun.

I will post more pictures and videos now that I have the internet at my disposal...can't wait!

OH PS If you would like me to send you a postcard please email me your address...I have quite a few but there are some that I forgot to write down before I left, don't be shy I love to send them!

Besos.